The Cusco Oil Catch Can aids in trapping the harmful engine blowby gases which can hinder engine performance and rob horsepower. A typical modern day gasoline powered engines are equipped with a blowby recirculation passage that reenters the harmful gases back into the combustion chamber for emissions purposes.
So, I have heard all of these things about carbon build up on direct injection engines, there have been some write ups at Miata.net specifically on the 2.0L. So, I have just less than 2000 miles on a 2016 Mazda3 2.5L and decided that I was going to put one in.
James Baroner racing.com sold me the unit, and it's not bad. But 2 things: 1. Hoses provided are really too small for the OEM plastic hose barbs and I did not want to snap off a piece of plastic and end up buying something expensive (so I cut the OEM breather line and used that hose on the actual barb (I wasted a lot of time trying to get the small hose on the big nipple (no sex jokes K?) Bad thing 2: They want you to install the can at the very back of the engine compartment, in a place where there's very little room and the hose barbs point directly towards a wiring loom and the hoses would have to go passed the drive belts. So, let me link you to my crappy little 4 min blab about the install with some pictures to boot. I will report back to let you know if this location worked out and how much milk comes outta the cow. Not having a stock air box made this install a million times easier.
![Mazdaspeed3 Oil Catch Can Install Mazdaspeed3 Oil Catch Can Install](http://www.therpmstore.com/Shared/Images/Product/Damond-Motorsports-Stage-2-Oil-Catch-Can-for-Mazdaspeed-3-6/DMS2OCC.jpg)
I used the tubing JBR supplied but in the directions it tells you to spread them with a needle nose for easier fit. The way I installed there was no need to mess with the starter either. From what I can tell the only reason they have you install in the rear of the engine is because they are assuming there is no space due to the stock intake. Where'd you stick it then?
![Mazdaspeed3 Oil Catch Can Install Mazdaspeed3 Oil Catch Can Install](/uploads/1/2/4/0/124082526/797170905.jpg)
Can't tell from the photo. I'd like a catch can but removing the starter deterred me.
From the picture it looks like Ralphy installed the catch can in almost the same place as I did. I have it on the fender side, and Ralphy has it installed on the engine compartment side (you can see the radiator fan there on the right side). Trying to put the 3/8 hoses on the plastic barbs was impossible for me without removing the starter. BATTERY DISCONNECT: I mean to write this before, but of course forgot. If you must disconnect the battery, there are only three things that you must re-do.
Re-set the clock 2. Re-do the driver power window (Auto feature wont work otherwise) 3. Reset the sunroof (auto feature wont work).
Driver's window. Cycle the window down, then up. When up, pull the window switch up and hold it for a few seconds. Push the sunroof button straight up (for the tilt feature to lift the sunroof), now push the tilt button again and hold for a few seconds. In CA it'd be illegal, but I wonder what would happen if you but a breather filter on the catch can and just plugged the lower intake barb.
You wouldn't get any oil in the intake manifold that way and would still allow expansion of air through the crank case breather. Just under the location of the stock air box.since I have an SRI there is more than enough space.
This is where I plan to install mine when I get it. A good buddy of mine has a '14 6 with the bottom end of the airbox removed which left a lot of space on the core support to mount the can, which also eliminates the need to run hoses all the way around to the firewall. I'm probably not going to buy the JBR piece because of price, buyt a good quality universal piece should work just fine as long as the can is baffled. I've seen what happens to the valves after about 25k, and that's not going to happen to mine. I purchased and installed the JBR on my AWD CX-5 (slightly different mounting bolt used because of AWD parts in the way, used a firewall panel bolt just left of the heatshield bolt)) and found that the included 3/8 hose was completely too small for the top ( manifold) inlet for the PCV. In fact the 3/8 fit completely inside one end the OEM PCV hose, which by the way for those reading is slightly smaller on one end.
I ended up putting the 3/8 hose into the OEM PCV hose, putting a clamp on it and putting it back on the barb. I bought another PCV hose from the dealer for $10 and did the same thing for the upper (after a ghetto work around I made by cutting some of the supplied 5/8, putting the 3/8 in that and putting it on the barb was leaking air). It's been on for maybe 2 or 3 weeks now. If you want to see what it catches from normal ops, make sure you aren't putting any type of seafoam, CRC DI valve cleaner or the like into the intake/vacuum system. I'm not sure if that 3/8 is completely wrong size, or it's the correct size for the 2.0 only. I did call JBR and let them know so, they might have or be addressing it (hopefully). So far I have been happy with the primary reason I bought it: a reduction of a power loss occurrence at redline wot shifting due to what I figured was oil vapor blow.
EDIT. I just did some googling and noticed that All mazda 6 (2.5L) and 2.5L cx-5 actually have a different P/N OEM pcv hose. Which is the issue, and it's not addressed on the JBR website.
All 2.0L cx-5 and 2.0/2.5L Mazda 3 have the same PCV hose - so I guess if they made the 3/8 hose fit in that case, then it's possible (although IMO, it makes more sense just to use the unused OEM as a sleeve in that case. In my case, it's impossible.
Preventing blow by and oil vapors from contaminating your intake system cannot be looked past, especially when modifying your car for higher power levels. The more power you make, the more contamination generally comes with it. The Damond Motorsports catch can kit will fix you up and keep that intake system clean by preventing buildup from vapors and blow by exiting the crank case. Everything needed to install the kit and mount the catch can is included for a smooth installation. Check valves come fully assembled in the lines, ready to route in your engine bay. The catch can is a powdercoated aluminum can with built-in baffle plates to make sure nothing gets past the can and back into the intake.
Draining the can couldn't be easier either. Just open the valve via the manual lever and let it drain.This catch can utilizes LOCATION 1.Will NOT fit with most cold air intake systems.